Candle Molds for Soy Wax: Silicone, Polycarbonate, and How to Use Them

Mold candles (sculptural shapes, figures, pillars) are a different discipline from jar candles. They need a different wax, a different approach to the wick, and some patience at release. The payoff is a candle that is a decoration in itself. Here is the whole process from choosing a mold to finishing.

Types of candle molds

Which wax for mold candles

Container soy wax is too soft: the candle bends, will not come out of the mold, and slumps in a warm room. For molds use pillar soy wax or soy blends with beeswax, stearic acid, or a hard coconut wax. That kind of wax shrinks 1-2% as it cools, which makes release easier, and gives a hard matte surface.

• Pure pillar soy wax (Golden Brands 494, EcoSoya PB): matte, cream, fairly brittle.
• Soy + 10-20% beeswax: harder, warmer tone, fewer cracks.
• Soy + 5-10% stearic acid: whiter, harder, holds detail better.
• Rapeseed-coconut pillar blends: increasingly popular, very smooth, take color well.

Wicking a mold candle

There are two schools. Wick in before pouring: thread the wick through the hole in the base of the mold (there usually is one, or you make one with a needle), seal it underneath with mold sealer or tape, hold it taut at the top in a centering tool, and pour. Wick in after: cast the candle without a wick, drill a hole with a heated rod or a thin bit, push in a pre-waxed wick, and seal with a drop of wax. The first method gives a better-burning candle; the second is easier with complex molds.

Sizing: for decorative candles meant to burn like a candle, size the wick as for a container equal to the widest point of the shape, but one size smaller than in a jar, because the harder wax melts more slowly and the flame should form a narrow pool, not melt the whole figure. Chart: candle wick size chart. For purely decorative candles that will never be lit, the thinnest wick for looks is fine.

How to pour a mold, step by step

1. 1

   Prepare the mold

   Wash and dry. Spray a polycarbonate mold lightly with silicone mold release; silicone molds do not need it. Thread the wick and seal the hole. Stand the mold stable and perfectly level on parchment paper.

2. 2

   Melt the pillar wax

   In a double boiler to 185-195°F (the harder wax needs more heat). Add dye, stir, then fragrance at 6-8%: pillar wax takes less fragrance than container wax.

3. 3

   Pour at 150-165°F

   Hotter than jar candles. Pour in a thin stream into one spot so you do not trap air in the details. With complex molds tap the mold on the counter a few times to release bubbles.

4. 4

   Top up the sinkhole

   Hard wax sinks around the wick as it cools. After 30-60 minutes, poke the skin that forms in a few places around the wick and add wax heated to about 165°F up to the original level. Repeat for large pieces.

5. 5

   Wait until fully set

   At least 12 hours for small molds, 24 for large ones. Do not put it in the fridge: sudden cooling causes cracks and discoloration.

6. 6

   Release

   Peel a silicone mold back like a sock, gently pulling the walls away from the candle. From polycarbonate the candle should drop out when inverted; if not, put the mold in the fridge for 10 minutes (only then) and try again.

7. 7

   Finish

   Trim the wick to 1/4 inch. Level the base by sliding the candle over a warm (not hot) skillet or baking sheet. Rub off mold seams with a fingernail or a quick pass of a heat gun. Cure 7-14 days before lighting.

Common mold candle problems

Safety for candles without a container

Dyeing mold candles works the same as jars, except that hard wax holds color better: details in how to dye soy candles. If you are looking for finished decorative and scented candles, browse our shop.